Granted, most pilgrims of yore were not on John Brierley’s 33 stage St. Jean Pied de Port to Santiago de Compostela plan, but beyond that I think the days of a modern day pilgrim are quite similar to those of earlier days. One rises, today more often to an alarm, them to the light of the sun or the crow of a rooster. Some of us pull the covers over our heads, thinking we might negotiate another 10 minutes or an hour. But the reality of moving on is compelling. Pack up the sleeping bag, bundle your belongings, and sip some coffee, eat a crust of bread, and comtemplate the day’s journey.

It’s risky to leave too early without the benefit of light to see the way. I can attest to the calamity of missing a turn marker and having to retrace or, worse yet, continue sure that you “know” the way. Once you have your bearings, you walk and walk and walk, eyes detecting the numerous roots, rocks, or other impediments waiting to grap your toe and send you tumbling to the ground. Your eyes also scan the horizon for a distant Pilgrim Village, a place to stop for a moment, regain your breath, and replenish your water. Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate.

In the Pilgrim Villages the modern day pilgrim has the best opportunity to sit in the same shade as pilgrims long ago. The narrow streets through these places have invited a myriad of footsteps over the centuries. It’s impossible to walk the path and not be touched by those who have passed before you.

Exhaustion tells you it is time to find a place to sup and rest your head for the night. But first you must find that shelter, that bed. You must also refresh yourself for the late afternoon and evening, for the day is not yet done. There are clothes to be washed and hung to dry. A meal to be prepared, or received from a gracious host. In modern day this is at a price of coins or bills, but one still finds albergues which lay out food for a donation.

And now this morning’s host is signaling that it is time to vacate his hostel so he can prepare for another straggling line of pilgrims later today, as last night’s guests turn their eyes to the road, looking for The Way.