But is that really swell? Sarria is the last place one can begin a pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago and still earn a compostela, the certificate which confirms you walked the Camino. The distance from Sarria to Santiago is 117.4 KM. The minimum distance allowed is 100 KM, so I suppose it’s possible to start at one of the villages we pass through in the next stage and still earn the compostela. It begins to sound a bit like a game, or maybe a quest for merit badges, but I can see on the faces of these newly arrived pilgrims a determination, a grit, and also the “why did I sign up for this?” frown.

Along the French Way, the route which begins at St. Jean Pied de Port, where I began four weeks ago, there are a number of alternate beginnings. This often depends on time available for achieving Santiago de Compostela, and in some cases the level of fitness and/or commitment. Thus the number of pilgrims has ebbed and flowed as some Peregrinos (another name for the pilgrims of the Camino) choose to do the walk in bits and pieces and others drop away due to injuries or the realization they are not quite up to the task. As those pilgrims head home, others have taken their place, joining in Pamplona, Burgos, and Leon. The latest influx joined in Astorga, the jumping off point for the moderately large group of Belgians I’ve watched and somewhat gotten to know over the last two or three days.

I have been forwarned by notations in John Brierley’s book, “The Pilgrim’s Guide to the Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances” that from Sarria onward beds can be scarce. I learned that the hard way when I had to rely on a last minute cancellation to get a room in a hotel, that at O’Cebreiro whose accommodations were overwhelmed by the new arrivals. I was lucky yesterday to get into an albergue, certainly the Frugal Pilgrim way to do the Camino, with a bed in a decidedly un-private setting running from four to ten Euros per night. Last night’s was still 6E, but tonight’s bed is costing me 9E. Still not bad, and I’m willing to pay a bit more in these final nights taking me into Santiago on Wednesday. Today, I phoned ahead an albergue in Sarria and grabbed a reservation. Some albergues will accept reservations, others are first come, first to get a bed.

I talked for some time last night with Howard, from New Zealand, and he had strong feelings about how far someone should have to walk in order to claim their compostela and, I assume, win points with God. His attitude was “start in St. Jean, or forget about it.” (This from a man who started in St. Jean, but is bicycling the 500 miles to Santiago. Does his two-wheeled traversal count?)

I have to admit that I came into the Camino adventure willing to negotiate along the way, maybe take a bus now and then to bypass a 14 or 20 mile stage or, as many do, skip the entire middle 150 miles or so, the part known as the Meseta. But once I endured the early blisters and doubts I took the attitude for myself that I really wanted to reach Santiago able to say that I had walked every step. I’m on track to do that, with now about 73 miles to go. But along with toughening my own standard I have learned from others on the Camino that it is not so much walking every step of the way (that’s fine if that’s “your” way) but realizing what the Camino means to you, how you intend to answer the challenge, and if that means a bus ride now and again, or hopping in a taxi on occasion, that’s fine. That’s YOUR way, and I have mine. We can still respect each other for meeting our intentions.

John Brierley says it succintly in his book, and I will do my best in the days ahead to observe his adage: “None of us can know the inner motivation or outer circumstances of another. A loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path with an open mind and open heart . . . without judgement of any kind.”

Pilgriming on! The Frugal Pilgrim.